Hats off to Naomi

 Naomi's partner Renaud Coutaudier and Naomi at the fragrance laboratory Accords et Parfums in southern France. "Renaud introduced me to the world of perfume from the first time we met,” Naomi recalls. “It was a world I knew nothing about." Which is precisely Naomi’s superpower when it was time to create her fragrances. She went in with a blank page. “I was so naive,” Naomi admits. “I didn’t even know who Serge Lutens was.” No matter, as Naomi’s perfumes were never about smelling other people’s compositions. It is another form of expression. It is an invisible accessories line.

Naomi's partner Renaud Coutaudier and Naomi at the fragrance laboratory Accords et Parfums in southern France. "Renaud introduced me to the world of perfume from the first time we met,” Naomi recalls. “It was a world I knew nothing about." Which is precisely Naomi’s superpower when it was time to create her fragrances. She went in with a blank page. “I was so naive,” Naomi admits. “I didn’t even know who Serge Lutens was.” No matter, as Naomi’s perfumes were never about smelling other people’s compositions. It is another form of expression. It is an invisible accessories line.

Before she became a perfumer, designer Naomi Goodsir self-trained as a milliner, handbag designer, and mistress of all things gorgeous in leather. There are many strings to this Australian couturiers bow. Moving from Sydney to live and work in southern France, Naomi is a modern-day Elsa Schiaparelli who revels in art de vivre and has a penchant for men’s vintage army pants and eclectic style. “Chic punk” is how one Parisian journalist described her aesthetic. Certainly, when it comes to her hats or bags, there’s no watering down. The same applies to her perfume. Unabashed and strident, her accessories are a perfect match. “Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.” Yes, Gore Vidal.

Naomi’s extreme approach to scent is a natural progression from her fashion. For her, fragrance is simply another way to express a raw material. “I’m inspired by texture,” says Naomi. “I do a lot of layering with fabrics and leathers. With perfumes, it’s about textures too.” After a chance meeting with her partner, Renaud Coutaudier, who was working on a collection of scented candles for Collette Dinnigan in Sydney at the time, the couple relocated to Le Cannet, just north of Cannes, and merged studios: the perfume, the fashion. Voila!

Mixing her personality and attitude with the talent of a perfumer, Naomi’s first perfumes include the suede-inspired Cuir Velours and the intense and smoky Bois d’Ascèse—both created by perfumer and friend Julien Rasquinet. Her award-winning tuberose, Nuit de Bakélite, is by Paris-based Isabelle Doyen, the in-house perfumer for Goutal Paris with Annick Goutal’s daughter, Camille. Bertrand Duchaufour composed Or du Sérail, a rich and decadent oriental tobacco. Bertrand is “a living Master of scent” according to Chandler Burr.

Chris Tubbs Photography ©

LifestyleClaire Bingham